Glynis & Pete go to Peru, Ecuador and the Galapagos

After a night disturbed by a car alarm at 2am, we were tired, but got up for a late breakfast.  It was cooked to order and confusing about what was on offer but Pete managed a full English somehow. We packed our stuff for the night flight to Madrid and headed out for a walk.  After going along the busy seafront, which has all been nicely rejuvenated and has a statue of Paddington Bear (who of course came from Peru), we headed inland to an ancient pyramid structure, but didn’t have time to go in, then walked back to the B&B via a road closed to cars so the locals could walk and cycle on a Sunday.  We stopped to buy water and were soon back, ready for our Lima city tour. We had low hopes after being told there is nothing in Lima, but were pleasantly surprised.  We drove out of Miraflores, past the pyramid and onto the next affluent area, San Isidro, which has at its heart groves of ancient olive trees.  Then it was on to the city centre, where we wa...

We woke up in the Wyndham at Guayaquil, which was lovely and luxurious.  We had managed to sort out a late checkout, so we had a great breakfast from the very extensive buffet and then went out for another walk, this time to climb the hill behind the hotel, all the way to the lighthouse.  Because of the interesting mix of regenerated waterfront and difficult areas not yet regenerated, there were dozens of guards of one sort and another showing us the way.  It was hazy but the views were great. We came down and managed to visit both the church and the firefighters’ museum which we had missed the previous week. Later we went out again for lunch, finding some decent hamburgers at one of the restaurants along the waterfront, before returning to the hotel for our late checkout. Our guide was back and took us to the airport, where we made the most of the lounge before boarding our flight back to Peru.  We were met at Lima by the same poor girl we had loaded u...

Today was our last day on the Galapagos.  We set off at 6am for our last wet landing on Santa Cruz Island.  It was a beautiful white beach with turquoise sea.  On the beach were the remains of WW2 American barges sunk when they left and a sea lion.  We walked further along the beach, spotting a turtle in the sea and came to a small lake inland from the beach and there were around 10 flamingos standing in the lake.  Most took flight soon after we arrived, but three stayed. Then it was back to the boat for our last breakfast and soon our luggage was being taken across the channel to Baltra Island, followed by us on our very last panga ride.  We took the public bus to the airport and checked in for our flights leaving just a few of the backpackers behind.  Luckily for us there was a VIP lounge and we were able to sit on comfortable seats for a while until the flight was called. And 2 hours later we were in the hubbub of Guayaquil traffic....

Today began with a walk at Sullivan Bay on Santiago Island.  The walk was very dramatic as we crossed a massive lava flow which was not there in the 1700s, but had appeared by the time Darwin’s expedition mapped the area. It had lots of lava bridges over semi-collapsed tunnels and only cacti grew and lava lizards chased locusts.  In and at the back of the black lava field were red cones from previous eruptions which had been surrounded by the new lava. We moved a very short distance and our afternoon walk was on Bartolome Island and we climbed to the top to get what is regarded as the best view in the Galapagos. The effort involved just after midday was worth it.  It was 327 steps to the top. Later in the afternoon, Glynis went with the snorkelling group and drove the rib again.  She had a very interesting chat with the driver, who is second in command of the Seaman II and will be the captain next week when the current captain goes on leave.  They w...

Today dawned overcast but as soon as we went ashore on Rabida island, it started to warm up.  It was a wet landing and from the beach, we climbed quite high for some fabulous views.  The island has red sand and is unlike anywhere else we have been. The snorkelers went off late morning and then after lunch we moved back to Santiago Island, ending at Chinese Hat, which is a volcanic cone reminiscent of the Pizza Hut logo.  Again there was snorkelling, but it was very windy and not appealing despite the beautiful turquoise lagoon. The walk was another wet landing, this time on a beautiful white sandy beach with turquoise water and sea lions tending their new pups. We walked over lava past Christmas bushes which turn from green to red in the dry season to a beautiful point with fabulous ocean views. We set off again as soon as we were back on board and headed to a small island with an asymmetric crater.   Our treat was flamingos swimming in the crater...

We thought it was going to be less rough after the equator and it was while we had dinner, but then the captain speeded up and we were soon pitching about.  We decided on a hasty retreat up stairs to our cabin and spent the early part of the night being pitched around. Fortunately we arrived at Santiago Island in the early hours and then managed to get a good night’s sleep. We were up early for a panga ride at Playa Espumilla/Bucanero.  It started with the usual trip along the coast looking at rock formations and birds, but very soon we saw a school of dolphins a little way out and followed them for quite some time as they played around the Pangas. Needless to say no-one got a photo of two dolphins jumping out of the water together. Then we went back to looking at the rocks and birds before going back to the boat and then kayaking across the bay. After lunch on the upper deck, we moved to Puerto Egos where we did our second wet landing and went for a walk along th...

Today after a good night’s sleep, we started early with a tour of the northern part of Fernandina Island, Espinoza Point.  It was a dry landing onto lava flows.  We saw lots of black iguanas, most of which hadn’t read the rule book and kept walking past us within the 2 metres we are supposed to leave between us and the wildlife.  Then it was on to see lots of Galapagos sea lions.  The young ones were basking in the sun or learning to play and swim in the pools amongst the lava flows.  As we walked further, we saw turtles pulled out onto a beach, plus a smaller reddish one of a different species. After moving to Punta Vicente Roca on Isabela Island, Glynis had a go at snorkelling for the first time, having not felt up to it previously.  She gave up quite quickly with a fin that wouldn’t stay in place, but her compensation was to be allowed to drive one of the RIBs.  She got in for a swim later in amongst masses of turtles, at least one of wh...

Even when the boat moved at 4.30am, it was still wonderfully calm, which was great. Today we started with an early walk at Urbana Bay on Isabela Island.  This was all about new land formed in 1954 with a section of the sea bed being uplifted.  We saw our first land iguanas which are a yellow colour and more giant tortoises.  We also saw, but didn't manage to photograph, the Galapagos mockingbird, which gave Darwin his first hint of the theory of evolution. The boat then on moved along the coast, we even saw a whale spouting on the way and we constantly had frigate birds above us.  We stopped in Tagus Cove and went kayaking, which was good as we saw a sea lion and a turtle and pelicans flying very close.  Later we went for a walk right to the top of the island, over tuffa and past a big seawater lake.  At the top we could see both sides of the island.

The boat moved overnight, which was a 13 hour trip.  The sea was rather rough, so despite seasick pills, Glynis didn’t have the best night and didn’t want a great deal of breakfast.  The first activity of the day was a panga (RIB) ride along at Mangle Point on Ferdinanda Island.  What we saw was simply amazing . . . The late morning activity was snorkelling which Glynis decided against, after her bad night, so we sat on the sun deck and watched for the pangas coming back. After lunch we moved to Punta Moreno on Isabella island and after another panga ride along the coast, which showed just how good the RIB drivers are, as it was pretty rough, we landed on this relatively new section of island for a walk. This was all about lava flows, it was desolate with only a few cacti.  Further in were fresh water ponds with one solitary flamingo.   On our way back we had a very lucky encounter with a fishing boat cleaning the fish.  They were surrounde...

Today we got up at 05.00 ready for a very early breakfast and a 6.15 pick up.  Diego took us to the airport having still not got rid of his bananas to his sister, so it was a bit of a squash again.  He started processing us through the agricultural checks and onto our flight, but we hadn't got our transit visas so had to wait for his colleague to arrive.  Luckily he turned up in the nick of time to get us through.  He gave us a pile of papers, then we were on our own.  We went through all the checks and used our Priority passes again to get into the VIP lounge.  All should have been well, but eventually we realised it wasn't.  After announcements to ask agent and chats to various people, we discovered that the plane was delayed by 2 hours. Eventually, we made it to the Galapagos at Baltra airport, where we had to wait for a sniffer dog to check everyone’s luggage, before we could collect it.  Eventually, we met our guide, saw our luggage onto...

We had a good night at the hotel in the gated suburb, but breakfast seemed very thin compared with what we’ve got used to, there was fruit, fruit juice, ham, cheese, jam and bread to toast.  After several phone calls to say Diego would be late, had arrived, hadn’t arrived, he came and knocked on our door. As promised, he took us to the Guayaquil cemetery to see the celebration of the day of the dead.  It was chaotic, with a road closure, flower sellers and other hawkers and people everywhere decorating tombs.  Most recent tombs are stacked like niches in a crematorium but these were much bigger and contained coffins.  Some had no dedication and were saved waiting for loved ones who are still alive. Then it was on to the city centre where we walked through towards the Malecon (the promenade) where there is a memorial to the two leaders who freed South America from the Spanish (Simon Bolivar and San Martin) and who met in Guayaquil. The weather was overcast, w...

After another slow breakfast service, we left Cuenca and headed north west towards the coast.  Above Cuenca in the Western Andes is the Cajas National Park.  We stopped at just short of 4000m at the park centre where we met our guide.  He took us for a walk round some of the glacial lagoons, explaining the land forms and plants as we went.  The scenery could have been Scotland, but the vegetation of the Paramo is so different.  It really is a magical place, so we really enjoyed the walk.  The weather was being kind and the views were superb. We had a snack lunch of chicken empanadas and our last cup of coca tea (now that we were leaving the highlands).  We need to give the coca tea away before we fly home! Our very last high place was at 4200m when we crossed the pass. We stopped just a little later to look down into the valley which was covered in cloud.  The vegetation was changing fast from paramo to cloud forest, then to tropical....

After breakfast, which was quite slow because it seems you have to eat your fruit before you are offered the hot dishes menu, we had a late start to our day looking round Cuenca.  We started high up above the city at a viewpoint, where a local singer was standing on a parapet in high heeled gold shoes and Andean traditional dress.  Fortunately she didn’t fall off. Then we went to the Panama hat workshop, which was fascinating with demonstrations of weaving, blocking and putting on the hat band.  And of course we had to have our photos taken with hats next to every star imaginable. In central Cuenca we left the car and looked at the main square, churches, the craft centre before shopping for drinks and in Pete’s case a massive ice cream. Our second outing was to look round the shops in the neighbouring streets.  There are some truly crazy combinations of goods such as washing machines and motorbikes in the same shop.  Another shop sold spo...

Yesterday we were hoping to see Cotopaxi; today it was Chimborazo, which was right opposite the hotel.  Early on, we could see the mountains in the opposite direction from the hotel and the cloud was low, so we didn't hold out a great deal of hope, but after breakfast, a second day of fruit then bread and eggs cooked however you want, we went to the car park and the clouds had lifted, our luck was in again. We drove a little way and took more pictures of Chimborazo, before taking a detour through the little town to get better views of Tungurahua and Altar.  Then it was on to Riobamba for a walk through the streets and morning tea and coffee.  Like Peru, the shops have eclectic mixes of goods, Pete particularly liked the washing machines and motor bikes in the same shop! Next stop was the tiny first church in Ecuador at Colta.  Directly across the road, a woman was roasting Cuy (guinea pigs) over a barbecue, but she hid when she saw the camera. Having ...

The hotel remained pretty chilly, so the heaters in our room were welcome, but eating breakfast while cold was a new experience.  Having got used to buffets, having it served is a new experience. Having missed seeing Cotapaxi yesterday, it was fabulously clear today so we got lots of pictures to justify our passport stamp. We headed west from the Pan American highway with good views of Volcan Ilininza most of the way.  In the far distance we could also see the Volcanos nearer to Quito in the distance. The road was incredibly twisty with endless hair pin bends as we drove up and down mountains and through fertile valleys as we headed towards Quilotoa.  Quilotoa is a fabulous crater lake which is almost 4000m above sea level and is just beautiful.  The skies remained clear so we got fabulous views back towards the Valley of the Volcanos.  A path goes down to the lake and the locals have cleverly spotted a business opportunity bringing people back up by don...